1996 is famous as a high sugar, high Champagne vintage. Initially lauded as the best since 1990, maybe better, it is undergoing a slight re-appraisal at the moment, as with some of the white Burdies. High and a tendency to oxidise appear peculiar bed-fellows, but the phenomenon has been noted with one or two Champagnes. Not so, thankfully, the 96 from Dom Pérignon, now enjoying what Richard Geoffroy describes as its 'second plénitude' of development; that is to say the rich primary fruit from this 50/50 Pinot/Chardonnay blend is now taking on a biscuity, honied richness, with hints of tropic fruit, figs and hazelnut adding suitable complexity.
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