XH-W3001 Digital LED Temperature Controller Module Digital Thermostat Switch with Waterproof Probe Programmable Heating Cooling Electronic Thermostat Range from -50℃ to 110℃ (12V 10A 120W) (2 Pieces)

For the price, I really didn't expect much here, but am very impressed. I got this as a freeze thermostat for a 12VDC bubbler in our pond and it works great. The temperature sensor is accurate to my surprise even though the controller is outdoors (in a watertight enclosure). For this application, set the 'Start Temp' to 0 deg C and the 'Stop Temp' to 1 deg C. This will turn on the bubbler at 0C (32F) and off at 1C (34F). Although it's rated at 10A at 12v, I wouldn't want to run 10A through the small gauge wires that come out of the box. Probably the internal relay is rated 10A. Since my bubbler is only about 1/2 A, it is fine and this would probably handle 1 or 2A ok. You need to search for an English manual after you receive it. Standby current is only about 40mA. When the relay is on, it's about 70mA. Quite low for a controller with an LED display. For about $5 each, how can you go wrong?

Works very well.

This review is for the 12 VDC version.Application: Cool a 30 and 40 amp solar charge controllers with a small 12 volt DC fanPros:There are some very good videos on the inter-screens on how to set this up. After watching them, you will see it is quite simple. It retains the settings that you have set in NVRAM and will go back to them after a loss of power. The on/off/settings seem repeatable over time and do not seem to drift. The display is easy to read,Cons:The thin wire size requires one to be pretty good at soldering. If you can solder the whiskers back on to a cat (if for some strange reason they fell off), you can do this easily. If testing your abilities, please use a heat sink so that it doesn't upset the cat :). The other issue is that because these wires are so thin, there is no way it could support 10 amps of continuous current. Things will get stinky pretty quick. The other minor issue i that It only reads in Celsius, but that should really not be a problem with a simple formula to calculate it, if Fahrenheit is your thing.Conclusion:The two I have work great for my application with a small fan. If you want to run a bigger cooling or heating device with more than a 3 amp draw, I would suggest you use the output of this device to turn on a relay and hook your load to a more robust, higher current relay. I thought about taking this device apart and slobbering on some thicker wire, but for a low current 12 VDC computer fan, it wasn't required. It seems like it works really well and for the price, it's a steal really. Just don't expect it to run 10 amps through those wires :) This thing works great if you understand it's limitations (that are not really documented). Like a lot of things on the inter-screens these days, you never want to try to run the device at it's documented limits. You could let the smoke out.

This is not a thermostat! With only the red and black wires connected there is voltage out of the other wires. I expect a thermostat to simply close the circuit, not send out power to destroy other components.

Easy to work, instructions on the back of the unit. This unit works in Celsius, the 99% of this planet.Wires are very, very fine. If you're not up on soldering such fine wires, you might have difficulty. Crimp connectors might be your choice with this.

I'm part of a volunteer water quality monitoring organization that measure water quality multiple times per year at local streams around my state. One of the things we do is take a water sample and culture it to test for E. coli. The samples need to be incubated for 24 hours. To make it easier for volunteers to do the testing without having to drive to a lab with an incubator, we wanted to find an inexpensive DIY solution. This temperature controller with a power source, heat mat, and computer fan inside a Styrofoam cooler worked quite well.In my prototype I checked the temperature readout vs several trusted thermometers and found that it was waaay off (more than 3 degrees C) and there were no instructions on how to calibrate it or if it was even possible to calibrate it. I found a YouTube video by searching "XH-3001 Calibration" and foudn that it's really simple to do. Once calibrated, it works perfectly for what we need.Thanks to the other reviewer who left the tip about sealing the back with silicone to make it more water resistant!

These temperature controllers are perfect, work very well, I will buy more. I love it when something is so well designed, is affordable and approachable. I like (preferred) the layout and simplicity of the face and controls and the case is aesthetically clean and sensible. Dialing in the settings, has been easy, fairly intuitive.I wanted / needed a temperature control in the completion of several audio (power amplifier) projects. I am using the slowest speed fans, 1) foremost needed a silent fan system 2) positioned for linear dissipation across the 9x12" heat sink... turns out, the layout is still "too efficient" and cools below my target of a 3) consistent 95 to 100 degrees... **This may apply to no-one... My project a 500 watt class A/B MOS FET design, very liner with with extended bandwidth... [I believe] temperatures across the +/- transistor pairs is (or has become) so apparent through extended evaluation.Bottom line, the control from the XH-W3001 [temperature influence] made a discernible difference in the performance of my amps. A helpful tool in modeling amplifier output stage operational temperature ranges.