E-Z LOKEZ-329-4 Threaded Inserts for Metal, 1/4-20 Installation Kit, Steel, Black Oxide

The media could not be loaded.  This work excellent and save me a lot of time and money recommend it 100% I ended putting 4 insert of this on 5.3 cylinder head with 22 ft/p torque, it holds it very good and I have the truck back on the road thanks, I used helicoils before but now this it’s my favorite 💪🏼

Worked well, was worth the money

I wanted to share my experience with two different products--Heli-Coil vs. E-Z Lok Inserts.The inserts measured 0.43" - 0.45". I used a 10.9 Grade M8-1.25 40 mm Flange Bolt that both big box stores carry. The 10.9 Grade bolt's torque spec. is 26.9 [Dry] Lb-Ft and 20.2 [Wet] Lb-Ft, whereas the 12.9 Grade bolt is 31.4 [Dry] Lb-Ft and 23.6 [Wet] Lb-Ft. Do not think these are hardened bolts. This product was an EPIC fail on the first aluminum scrap part. Wait.I tried the first hole with the supplied stamped 27/64" (0.421875) drill bit actually measured 0.3691", 1/2-13" tap and the M8-1.25 insert. Upon observation, the insert was partially OK, but realized that I over-torqued the bolt shearing the head off--used the M10 torgue spec. I could not remove the insert for closer inspection. However, the threads appeared stripped inside. I went and bought another (2) Flange bolts from (2) different big box store--(1) was 10.9 Grade M8-1.25 Flange bolt with #13 metric socket and another 10.9 Grade M8-1.25 Flange bolt with #10 metric socket. [There were no 12.9 Grade Flange bolts].I grabbed another scrap aluminum, drilled up to 13/32" (0.40625) drill bit, used the same 1/2-13" tap and screwed in the insert. Torqued the first bolt to 30 Lb-Ft and the second one to 40.5 and decided not to push it anymore so that was an EPIC success. Will report back after I drill the existing hole on the engine. Note, I tried the E-Z Heli-Coil on the same first aluminum scrap part and it was an EPIC fail--do not use it on any soft metal like an aluminum. This product is promising.I know that if I obtained the 12.9 Grade Flange bolt, the results will improve. I think the bolt will fail before the insert. If the threads become no good in the future, you will have to use an easy out or drill out the insert just enough to remove it. After the threads of the first insert was stripped. I was able to use the easy out and installed another insert--torqued to 30 Lb.Ft. Did not re-tap the hole. Good luck.Last, the Website does not specify--What are the differences of E-Z LOK EZ-310-M8, E-Z LOK EZ-450-8, and E-Z LOK EZ-650-8?

Good product. Comes with everything you need to repair a thread.

Let me start with a little lesson on taps. There are three types of taps. A Bottoming Tap, a Plug Tap and a Tapered Tap. This kit comes with a bottoming tap. Bottoming taps are meant to cut threads down to the bottom of a hole. The end is flat and squared so it may do this. These taps are not meant for starting new threads in a fresh drilled hole. It is almost impossible to get this type tap started as you can imagine. There is NO TAPER that allows a start to cutting. If you do manage to get the bottoming tape started then the first few threads will be bad. These E-Z LOK inserts were used in my repair of a Stihl concrete saw case and were needed to repair the threads at the top of the repair area. SOOOO ... if you use the provided tap for this type repair the insert will not tighten into the fresh threads, it will be loose due to the buggered-up threads at the top. My first repair was this way and required some epoxy and a prayer to set the first insert.I then went out and purchased the proper sized TAPERED tap for the rest of the holes to be repaired. Tapered taps are designed to start clean good threads and that is what my purchase did. The rest of the inserts went in fine, tight and I also put on a little epoxy for the heck of it.There was a YouTube on pull-out strength of various thread repair kits and these inserts were among the highest rated. I like the inserts. My advice is to buy the inserts separately and just purchase a good, tapered tap for your local hardware store. The provided tap in this kit does not make good threads. They will be loose and your first few threads will be way oversized and poor.NOTE: the entire kit does have an installation tool, but a flat blade screwdriver works as well.

These work great for a high strength thread repair.Highly recommend!!!

Good product

Working on my wife's old Willys truck, one cylinder head stud was stripped. I needed something that could handle 70 foot/pounds of torque. Contacted the company for specs, data came back as this could easily handle the torque. Everything included and extra thread inserts. Easy to use. The tap is a bottoming tap so care has to be used to get it started straight.

Worked well easy to use , better than a helicoil for my application ( cast iron transmission extension housing )Now to use up the other 9 inserts , might be awhile 😆

This saved my English block. Broken bolt deep in the block to where I connect my timing chain cover. Followed the instructions and now the car is back together running these streets.

The kit works as described, but the tap included wasn't able to cut in to cast iron heads. Ended up buying a separate tap with more chamfering and was able to get the job done. Inserts worked as advertised

Used to repair 7/16/14 damaged thread in a cast iron racing head for a sbc. Worked great

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